Saturday, 26 June 2010

Model Envy: Milan & Paris S/S 11'

I know conclusions are suppose to be drawn at the end but I'm gonna go wild like a Kenyan bush in the heat without a razor or a waxing kit and do one NOW! I myself (why do people say that... fools!) was NOT blown away by the Menswear offerings for S/S 11, like Madonna pre photoshop or Whitney Houston during the Bobby years it was all rather UNDERWHELMING (yes I did just shut down two divas, they fail too). One big post, I give my "two cents" on some of the Milan and Paris Menswear shows. Here goes.Be warned. It's a long one. I added as I viewed.


Ermenegildo Zegna's collection made me want to dust of my dad's old blazers and start wooing strangers on the street with tales of Egypt, but I've never been so now I must in order to follow through with this cool trendy get up. You don't have to go to Egypt to be eligible for such a collection, do your exotic location, if it's Bognor Regis so be it. Link that bad boy!


Definitely the hot ticket, star studded front row and Annie Lennox on tap. A celebration of how far the design duo have come with their menswear lines.


Jil Sander SS11- Milan (click gathered looks e.g. THIS! for clearer view)

The Jil Sander collection was a little short on color I think *crickets* ... The collection was like a bag of skittles. Color blocking at it's finest. Technicolor trenches for the men folk working in the city during the warmer months! (if only) Attention grabber= flower art on shirts. Watch part 1 and part 2 of the Raf Simons lead designs.

Burberry SS11- Paris

Burberry Prorsum was one of the "better" collections, a "militant biker" is the vibe I was getting from this collection. Bailey's designs are generally my style and I always appreciate the styling as the looks are truly RTW. I liked the collection the colors, the leatherwear, studding, mod motifs etc however it just wasn't anything I haven't done or seen done as well done as they've done if not close. Capiche? (when in Rome *cough* Milan) Liking the looks but just ready for them to get "forward" afterall it is in the name/manifesto. Politicians disappoint me all the time I fear I'll have to sit in my wardrobe in the dark in a pick 'n' mix of trends and labels shall designers fail me.

Gucci SS11 & Neil Barrett SS11 (L-R) - Milan
There were a few goodun's coming out of the Gucci closet. I liked the the weaving done with the bags. The two bags above particularly caught my eye. The classic loafers walked the runway with double denim action, denim trousers and chunky "fishnet" knits i.e pic 2. Didn't leave a mark tbh, on to the next. I usually like what Neil Barrett offers up and if his latest collection was a night on Come Dine with me I'd score a 6! "Was a nice evening and I love Neil but I wanted an experience and I was kept in the same neck of the woods" Barrett distressed, ruffled and faded and as ever masters making monochrome "colorful". My two favorite looks are the two above, digging those patchwork leather trousers. NEED THEM!

Alexander McQueen SS11- Milan

Loved the variation of silhouettes, styles and general fit from the 21 looks supplied by Alexander Mcqueen. This is how feminine cuts etc should look when "borrowed" for menswear. Just love the combining of opposites executed! The "collection" is more of a capsule to McQeen's vision shining brighter than most design houses. I did get a lump in my throat at the end of the show, still expected to see Lee pop out for his encore :( Props to Sarah Burton, no-one can replace Lee but this collection which was initially intended to be a tribute restores faith.

Emporio Armani SS11- Milan

Who said footless tights and ankle boots were just for the Topshop brigade. Emporio Armani played it very close to Boy George circa escort chained to radiator and how far is too far if you are born with (or bought) and proud of your meat and two veg. I liked the use of soft leathers with octagon cut outs, shorts and sheer shirts. I welcome this edgy progression. I wouldn't style myself (day to day life not shoots) this way but I'd wear almost all of it bar the footless tights. I'll leave that for the more "adventurous". Other highlights were the grey camouflage trousers, double leather and 1/4 cut out's cap! Despite the return of the mankini I enjoyed this collection. The final walk showed a glimpse of the future army uniform...
could do a deal with Johnson's, a "Pair of Pants with Powder" would start a fire and burn your peen off if precaution isn't taken wearing that in the heat.

Moncler Gamme Bleu SS11- Milan

Moncler Gamme Bleu put on a show even better than the spring 2010 collection! Surely Thom Browne's latest offering should A) be how "suits" should cycle to work B) how British Olympians should dress come 2012 or C) BOTH!! The collection and the location (Vellodromo Vigorelli Football Stadium) are thought through, wish I could say the same about the England squad at the world cup. This is stylized activewear! *high five* *butt pat* *chest pump* for all!!

HAVE A LOOK at Thom's SHOW for his own label!! As soon as there's a video up that does it justice I'll upload.

Prada SS11- Milan

Miuccia!! I've been saved by a woman! She to me (man) is what YSL was to women (*cough* and men). Liberation,challenging, understanding a sex and innovating. You'd never believe I really liked the Prada collection (where's sarcasm?) I call this Modern Age in Retrospect! The collection said to be inspired by fast food chain uniforms doesn't ignite on paper but the reality rocked my boat. Highlights for me were the man skorts, sealed neck line, Genoan denim roots and broesper; morphing of the brogue shoe with espadrille and trainer sole layers!! This is how it's done, know your grass roots, celebrate your past but innovate! A man can be a MAN in a dress, it's how you style it and act whilst donning it.


Alexis Mabille SS11- Paris

Alexis Mabille SS11

Freshy Alexis Mabille impressed me with this collection, it pulled on my hippie heart seams. To be honest this would probably be a "trend" hippie but the undertone feel of flower power isn't lost. 3D blazers with butterflies attached (fabric I assume OR ELSE I shun you Alexis) The sand tones with the fresh and pure white, blue and yellow just whispers softly 'spriiing". Ode to pollen. Not keen on the silver speedos (I'm anti sexualized swimwear for men)and shimmer joggers etc partially due to my own tastes but also it disrupts the cohesion of the collection. Perfect festival raincoat (look 3 above), slouchy linens, candy cane pinstripe trousers and wrap around sandals. For the most part the boy done good.

Viktor & Rolf SS11- Paris

Viktor & Rolf enlisted cat caller singer Elly Jackson to "entertain" the audience as they showed of their spring summer pieces. I can hear Domenico and Stefano laughing now " La Roux, is it a new bottle of red? Hardly Annie Lennox". Viktor & Rolf were evidently armed with their design kit ready to rework. Champagne tones, trench belts used as trouser belts teamed with patent loafers. Hints of ice cream/ sorbet colors with what I call alfresco loafers and dark piping on shirts. Mr Snoeren said their inspiration is "bestowing on boys the elegance of men". Perfectly put.

Issey Miyake SS11- Paris -------- Rick Owens SS11- Paris

Issey Miyake designer Dai Fujiwara drew inspiration from a trout (yes... fish). Certainly not one of my favorite offerings from the Paris shows but I did like some pieces e.g. sleeveless denim jumpsuit (far left). Respected his eye for detail with plaid manipulation.

Rick Owens created a storm with dry ice and wind as his "Monastic Couture" collection took the runway. The models wore wimples, one shouldered sheer vests and single buttoned lapel less coats with equally impressive short sleeved jackets with thin lapels. This isn't a collection for the vertically challenged but that being said whip on a pair of the wedge knee high boots, sorted! Penitents! *side note* Collection gave me flashbacks of his Spring 2009 Womenswear show.

YSL SS11 -Paris------ Yohji Yamamoto SS11- Paris
Stefano Pilati offered up some goods over at YSL. Nicely cut lapels and loose fits still maintaining the renowned YSL silhouette. Attention to detail as expected.

"I think current fashion is too American. It's T-Shirts and shorts all the time. I think we need some proper elegance to enhance the atmosphere" said Yohji Yamamoto and I agree to an extent mostly with the latter statement. Fashion writer Rebecca Voight responded to Yamamoto's collection stating it was like "Mozart and his friends on acid" to which I agree completely. Top hats and florals for all gentleman folk!

Comme des Garcon SS11- Paris

Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo struck my style chord, skulls and cut outs, loud yet dark. Remember my dress statement up top well look at look 4 (far right above)! The skull printed lace ups are a MUST!

__Dior Homme SS11- Paris---------Kris Van Assche SS11-Paris

More than ever since replacing Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme I think the similarities between said collection and Kris Van Assche's own label were very evident. The bellowing jackets and fashionably baggy pieces could've easily been merged to one more pronounced showing. The significant difference being the ink splattered pieces in Assche's self titled label.I'd have to say Kris's collection comes top which I guess supports his position at Dior Homme. Minimal and deep cuts. Reverse of Largerfeld/ Chanel syndrome? Ponder that.

Givenchy SS11- Paris

It's no secret I stan for Givenchy and though I wasn't robbed of air I most certainly will not be handing in my fancard. Ricardo Tisci deigns clothes for my life. Sure I've stated this before but I'll risk a repeat! I would be happy to have an exclusively Givenchy wardrobe (not an option currently... working on it). Separate Opposites! Pure darkness! laced leopard! Jumpsuits disguised as suits and nice vertebrae necklaces. I may even retract my earlier statement about leggings for men in favor of his sheer looser fit. Game-Set-Match?

Raf Simmons SS11- Paris

This proves thin to win surgical gowns, floor sweeping flared trousers, Peter de Potter graphics and zippers took to the floor at Raf Simmons show. Marking his 15th anniversary in Paris Simmons dedicated the collection to Martin Margiela who's 1991 collection inspired his decision to become a designer! His creations are possibly one of if not the most innovative this season.


To conclude (again). The high street designers will soon be mocking up replicas/homages. There will be mandals, sheer fabrics,skorts and crop tops a plenty. Color blocking lives on for another spring/summer. Saying that there's not much color but If I'm honest thats both welcomed and I hate when color is splattered just for season's sake as appose to it actually benefitting a creation.Statement accessories and bags become even grander. McQueen's "Pomp and Circumstance" stovepipe shape trousers swam supreme amongst a sea of wide legged and drop crotch. There was a theme of reflection I felt, the obvious monuments like Dolce and Gabbanna turning 20, Zegna 100! but also more subtle strokes of nostalgia e.g. classic Gucci sock-less loafers. With tights, wedges et al the gap between male and female fashion draw closer. Style is for the taking, following fashion is faking. That's how Q sees it!

P.S. fellow tweeter and fashion boy @sebulous dropped SONNY in my timeline the other day! Great backstage pictures of the shows! What you waiting on, bookmark it like you've done with my blog *looks up*

Till next runway pickings. I leave you with Sir theatre himself John Galliano

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